Costa da Caparica
As a person who grew up near beaches, I’ve never really experienced the novelty of sitting on the sand or paddling in the sea. There is some beautiful coastline in my home town, but to me I got more pleasure from a walk along the coastal path rather than bathing on the beach itself. For the Portuguese, the beach seems to be much more of a fixture in people’s lives than it is for the English. The first time I went to a beach in Portugal must have been last April, when the weather starts getting what an English person such as myself would call ‘summery’. I went with friends and it was an event because we hadn’t been together before and clearly it was our first opportunity to do so since I had arrived in January.
That was about fourteen months ago and I guess it was only a matter of time before my perspective of the beach would change. Take a look at any guidebook or website related to Lisbon and it will tell you that it is the only European capital city to be located so close to so many beaches. Not only is this true, Lisbon also has the warmest climate of any capital city in Europe. So why have I never really seen the fascination like so many of my fellow countrymen?
Around six weeks ago, on a sleepy Saturday afternoon, I went to a beach with an English friend. It was about thirty degrees. We visited a beach called Praia da Nova Vaga, which is set aside specifically for kite surfing. This is entirely possible as this particular beach is part of a coastline that stretches across many, many kilometres. This stretch is known as Costa da Caparica.
Location of Costa da Caparica, south of Lisbon
Costa da Caparica is located just minutes away from the south side of the 25. Abril bridge which stretches across the River Tagus. Although it is clearly not the only choice of beaches near to Lisbon (there are still many others), it is one of the most popular areas. I’m mentioning it now because although I’ve visited it before, I’ve never seen the real charm of it.
To get to Costa da Caparica from Lisbon, you can cross the 25. Abril bridge by car.
The ‘main’ beaches of Costa are located near the town itself and are the most popular on the stretch. Walk around the sands and beach restaurants and you’ll hear a wide variety of languages; these beaches are popular with both locals and tourists. However, more recently I’ve been visiting some beaches that are located a few more kilometres down the sand. These quieter beaches are accessible by a small train that runs in the summer down the coast or by a small road. Fortunately for me ,I’ve been lucky enough to experience these beaches with friends who have been kind enough to drive me directly there.
The small train which transports passengers to the more distant beaches of Costa.
Yesterday, myself and a couple of Polish friends visited a beach named Praia Cabana do Pescador. The weather was beautiful; pure, cloudless sunshine with a light breeze which meant it didn’t feel too hot. I mentioned this beach in a previous post and what makes it special is not only the quietness of it, it also has a beautiful café joined to it. (Link below.) The café provides loungers, beanbag-like things to rest on and anybody can use them on the beach. The interior of the café looks out on to the beach and must be a great place to be at night. (It’s on my to-do list!)
Inside 'Delmare Café' looking out to the beach.
Praia Cabana do Pescador
Although the sea can be relatively choppy, it’s perfectly possible to bathe and have fun in the waves and a great thing about a lot of the beaches at this end of the coast is that, as the sea meets the land, there are sand hills, meaning as the tide goes in and out, some sea water is deposited and remains in the dip as a natural pool and can actually become quite warm under the sun. The two times that I have visited this specific beach, I’ve indulged in a beautiful fruit salad from the café. Eaten on the beach, it’s just beautiful.
Heaven on a plate. Last time even had pineapple!
Anyone visiting Lisbon and the surrounding area specifically for the beaches should take the time to move away from the most popular areas and relax on the quieter beaches that are slightly more difficult to access.
The quieter areas of Costa, along with Troía lagoon (located near Setúbal), are two reasons why I am slowly converting from a beach-sceptic to a true beach-bum!
Links:
http://www.guiadacidade.pt/pt/poi-praia-da-cabana-do-pescador-costa-da-caparica-14091
